Hanger Steaks or the Belly of the Beast
Volume 49, Issue 6
By Michael Safdiah

We all love the familiar beef cuts from the round, the loin and the chuck (neck-shoulder), but the belly cuts–more fatty, and richer in flavor –are delicious and up to recently cheap, but now highly sought after. Recently in-the-know diners have been paying attention to a small little known steak called 'Onglet' in French, and “hanger” in English. I'm particularly lucky that Eddie, our Pines butcher, stocks them. There is only one to each animal, and usually the butcher takes it home for his family, which is why it is also called “butcher's steak.” It is little publicized or understood, but it helps to know where it comes from, since the adjoining muscles have similar qualities. They are rich in fat and connective tissue. They are excitingly tasty and require a different treatment from the 'top' (of the animal) cuts. They don't like to be overcooked as they get tough. The fat inside the muscles makes them ideal for long slow cooking such as baking or braising as for brisket, or faster high temp shorter grilling as for skirt steaks, flank steaks or hangers. The latter three have a pronounced 'beefy' flavor, and are used in dishes like fajitas, or Philadelphia steaks. They may want to be pounded briskly, and then grilled.

Slicing any of these long muscled cuts is particularly important, because if you slice on the bias, and ACROSS the grain you have a nice, tender slice. Try slicing ALONG the grain and you may be chewing for half an hour. Look at your first slice and if you see the lengthwise muscle fibers, turn the meat around 180 degrees and slice that way. You should see the muscle in cross section and that's what you want.

One marinade I like to use is inspired by my friend, chef Michael Lomonaco, formerly of Windows On the World 107th floor restaurant. Skirt Steaks, marinated in black coffee and garlic. I don't know of one decent recipe for any of these cuts that does not have lots of garlic. What does that tell you? This one's my own formula for a mysteriously exotically-flavored steak.

COFFEE MARINADE

1 cup very strong black cofee,

espresso is best

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

1/2 cup dark red wine

1/3 cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon dark molasses

2 tablespoons honey

1 tsp crushed fresh ginger

1 onion, peeled and chopped, about 1 cup

5 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed

zest of half an orange

1/4 tsp. Crushed black peppercorns

3 crushed bay leaves

1/4 tsp dried thyme

2 tablespoons hot dry mustard mixed with 1 tablespoon water

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

2 tablespoons ground cumin

Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over low heat for 5 minutes. Cool, strain.

Place trimmed hanger steaks into a bowl or better yet into a re-sealable plastic bag, adding the marinade. Suck the air out. Place into a tray and refrigerate for 2 hours, turning several times. Using Baggies for marinating gives me excellent results and easy clean ups.

Drain and grill the steaks over a medium high heat 'till they are rare to 'medium-rare in the middle, and set aside in a warm place. Slice on the bias and across the grain. Save the juices, and serve with the following sauce:

Sauce: Reduce the marinade by half, adding 1/2 teaspoon of chopped fresh rosemary. Just before serving, add back the reserved juices, swirl in 2 Tb fresh butter at room temperature, correct salt, and serve right away.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN BEEF

2 pounds hanger steak, cut into grilling sized pieces, trimmed.

1/2 cup sugar

1 cup cider vinegar

1/4 Tsp. Chili paste (or to taste)

5 cloves garlic, crushed

1 Tb. grated fresh ginger

grated zest of one half each: lime, orange, lemon

1/4 cup soy sauce, or Thai fish sauce

1/2 bunch sliced green onions

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup vegetable oil

Place sugar into a saucepan, and allow it to melt over low heat till it forms a caramel. Keep stirring, use a wooden spoon, and be careful its very hot! Add the vinegar, the chili, garlic, ginger and citrus zests. Add the chili paste, soy sauce, or thai fish sauce, honey and green onions. Continue cooking until all the caramel has dissolved. Cool and pour over the beef. Allow to marinate for a few hours.

Drain marinade, allow meat to reach room temp, this is key for all grilling. Grill till done medium rare, not a bit more.

Strain and reduce marinade, add sesame oil, 1 Tb Rose's lime juice, correct seasoning, and spoon over slices of beef.

BEEF IN DARK RED WINE AND MUSHROOMS

24 oz. hanger steak or flank steak, or skirt steak, trimmed

1 small onion cut into large pieces

1 large or 2 small carrots sliced

4 cloves garlic, sliced

1 stalk celery, sliced

2 Fire Island bay leaves

5 whole peppercorns, crushed

4 whole cloves

a few sprigs of fresh thyme

a sprig of fresh rosemary

6 oz dark red wine

6 oz port wine